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Basics of Surf Theory

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Basics of Surfing

You’ve decided to learn how to surf? That‘s great!

Read our tips about basic surfing skills and get ready for your first surfing session.

Basics of Surfing

You’ve decided to learn how to surf? That‘s great!

Read our tips about basic surfing skills and get ready for your first surfing session.

Checking the spot

Before you enter the water, check the spot and warm up:  Every experienced surfer checks the spot before they surf.

Look at where and how often waves break.  Where are the lineup, the peak and the channel for getting back to the lineup after riding a wave? How strong is a shore break and where do you best enter the water? Be aware of shore break and rip currents.

Paddling to the lineup

While paddling to the lineup, keep your mental map of the spot in mind. You should know how to avoid crashing waves that could knock you off your board. It takes time to get the techniques of Eskimo Roll and Duck Dive right.

The small waves you saw from the beach seem huge from the water.

Always keep an eye out for the other surfers in the area when you are paddling out. The surfer that catches the wave has priority – you should not impede or disturb the rider in any way.

At the lineup

When the breaking waves are over, the water becomes still and you have the opportunity to take a rest.

At the lineup

When the breaking waves are over, the water becomes still and you have the opportunity to take a rest.

The lineup area is where surfers sit on their boards and wait for a wave. You can watch the waves come in and move to the right place to surf. Watch for as long as you need to see where the wave begins to curl.

Catching

a wave

Experienced surfers know how to predict the waves – how big they are and where they will break. If you see a suitable wave, have the nose of your board face the shore. Lie on it and get ready to paddle. The longer your board, the easier it is to catch the wave, because it offers the maximum amount of stability and speed.

Catching

a wave

Experienced surfers know how to predict the waves – how big they are and where they will break. If you see a suitable wave, have the nose of your board face the shore. Lie on it and get ready to paddle. The longer your board, the easier it is to catch the wave, because it offers the maximum amount of stability and speed.

The person closest to the peak of the wave has priority.

The longer your board, the easier it is to catch the wave because, it offers the maximum amount of stability and speed.

Standing

up and

riding

a wave

Always practice on the beach first, so that you know how to stand up properly and are ready to perform the movement when you are in the water.

 

 

Standing up and riding a wave

Always practice on the beach first, so that you know how to stand up properly and are ready to perform the movement when you are in the water.

Your knees should be bent, your body balanced, and your eyes looking ahead at what is going on. Focus on the waves and not your board.

The first waves you will surf will be the already broken whitewash waves. Once you have mastered those, you can move on to ride the green, unbroken waves.

Turning

the board

Managing the board

So you‘re balanced and comfy on your board, riding down a wave‘s face. It‘s time to work on turning and maneuvering your board. Apply pressure to the back of the board as you lean with the carve slightly. Your hips, head and torso should remain fairly upright, while you use your lower body to steer the board.

Turning

the board

Managing the board

So you‘re balanced and comfy on your board, riding down a wave‘s face. It‘s time to work on turning and maneuvering your board. Apply pressure to the back of the board as you lean with the carve slightly. Your hips, head and torso should remain fairly upright, while you use your lower body to steer the board.

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